This is the normal route that is usually taken for the descent as well. It is extremely
long, so you must bring tents with you for at least one bivouac. From the Austrians'
Bivouac, cross the glacier and go over the large icefall to the left, up to the small
plateau. Here you must go up the icy wall that delimits the left end of the plateau until
you reach the ridge. This is a veritable ice route that must be tackled with two ice axes,
crampons, ice screws and rope. The first part of the ridge is in the shape of a large crab,
hence the singular name of this route. Continue along the ridge with its many cornices,
and turn west at about the halfway point, which is about 5,000 m above sea level.
This is a delicate stage of the route, because the wind is often so strong that it stops
any forward progress. It is said that climbers have been literally swept off their feet
because of the "sail effect" of their jackets. Normally
you can bivouac in some hollow on the northern side of the ridge and continue the climb the
following day up to the summit. This route takes at least two days for the climb and
Solo style climbing up the North face of Mt. Shkhara (5068 m) in Bezengi region Central Caucasus by Alexandr Sheinov
Rock climbing Photos - near to Bezengi Camp.
To be continued...
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