"North face of Mt. Donguz-Orun is traversed by the glacier with its unmistakable "7" shape, a spectacular massif covered with ice and snow that rises up over 1500 m in the heat of Central Caucasus in front of Elbrus. It is rather difficult to decide to have climbing after having spent a night at the foot of this group because of continuous ice-fall all night long some where on the wall. But it was my dream that really fascinates me. I have climbed it three times in my life: in autumn, winter and summer, but the climb I remember with the great emotion is the first one: in 1987: more then 1500 meters solo climb in free style by the centre of the face in one day up and down. Michael Khergiani's rope team, the first team climbed up the North face took four days to make ascent up and one day for descent!
It was autumn, the end of the season and on the spur of the moment I decided to try to climb. I felt that I really can! I have been studying this North face for a long time, so I knew it like the back of my hand and had already gained quite a lot of experience in solo climbing in North face of Ullu-tau Mt., that I have done a lot of time. I was sure I would make it now.
I set up my bivouac tent very close to the side of the face in moraine, which afforded me protection from the ice-falls that occurred one after another throughout the night, making a terrible din. It was hard to sleep and I was almost waiting for the morning. At four o'clock I left my tent. A half hour later I was already on the face. I confronted the first triangle of rocks by going around it to the right, on the ice; then I got over the second one by moving to the right on the rock ridge encrusted with ice, up to the middle of the face. From this point I proceed on the ice and then amongst blocks of rocks along the steep gullies with 50-60 incline.
It was bitterly cold and I had the impression that even my lungs were lined with a layer of ice. I was very tense because I was not using any form of belay. I was not climbing, but "running" on the ice shield, or at least I was trying to do so, because I was rather afraid of icefall.
At last I arrived at the final 50-60 meters hut of ice, the most difficult and dangerous part of the entire route. The idea was to surmount a sort of ice overhang. Every once in a while a part of the overhang would break off and plunge headlong. I had no forms of security and no way of saving myself had a piece fallen at that moment. I was lucky. Overcome with exhilaration, I reached the top at two or three in afternoon. Three hours later I was already in my tent and I came back home in the evening. The dream comes true"