Fanskie Mountain region

Fanskie Mountain region (Map).

(In the foto to the right) peak Chimtarga.

(In the foto to the left) peak Adamtash.

This range consists of about 100 beautiful peaks situated at the western end of the Pamiro- Alai system. Ten mountains are over 5,000 meters high and have faces over 2,000 m high. Among the loveliest and most interesting from a mountaineering standpoint are Mt. Chapdara (5,050 m), Mt. Bodkhona (5,138 m), Mt. Zamok (Castle, 5,070 m ) and Mt. Zindon (4,800 m). The highest point in the region is Chimtarga peak (5,487 m), which has routes of varying degrees of difficulty. The normal one, which is not interesting, skirts the mountain from the southeast and reaches the summit from the north, while the more difficult routes that wind up along the southern and western faces are beautiful. The area can be reached either by helicopter from Samarkand or Dushanbe, or by travelling from twelve to fourteen hours on a road cut out of the rock that winds up precipices hundreds of meters high. Often the road is so narrow that only one vehicle can pass, so that mountain climbers have to "regulate" traffic from the camp: in the morning vehicles can go up and in the late afternoon they can descend. The good season is short; the sun shines every day only in August. The region is rich in water, rivers and lakes. Expeditions coming from the north usually set up the base camp near the splendid Alaudinskie lakes, in the Chapdara river valley, about an hour and a half walk from the end of the road.

(In the foto to the right) peak Chapdara North-Western face in the sunset.

Mt. Chapdara (5050 m) North-Western face.

Mt. Chapdara (5050 m) peak N.-E. Face.-*ROUTES*

The huge rock bastion of Mt. Chapdara (5050 m), one of the most beautiful and most interesting in the Funskie Mountain. The North-West face seen from Alaudin lakes in all its splendour especially in morning time. It takes only one hour to get to the foot of the 2000 m rock face from this lake with a lot of routes to chose from. The easiest one comes by Northern ridge by the rock bastion named "Sphinx" (left side in the picture looked with sky background).

Climbing Mt. Severniy ("North" 4,200 m, 2B) From the base camp near the Alaudinskie lakes you head west, through easy green slopes that go towards the Alaudin pass (3,730 m, IB, 2-3 hours). Then head south until you reach the top along the easy rock ridge (1 1/2-2 hours from the pass). From here there is a marvellous view of the Maria-Mirali group (4,970 and 5,120 m) and Chapdara Peak (5,050 m). The descent winds along the same route and takes about three hours. Rope and pitons are needed on the ridge from the pass to the top.

(In the foto to the right) North side of Mt. Bodkhona in early morning light.

Bodkhona peak - common view.-*ROUTES*

Bodkhona (5138 m) peak W. face.

Zamok (5070 m) peak N. Face.

Zamok (5070 m) peak W. Face.

Normal route up Mt. Zamok ("Castle," 5,070 m, 2B)

(In the foto to the right) Norrth face of Mt. Zamok, seen from peak Adamtash.

The Zamok group is a bastion which to the west, northeast and north has vertical faces with 5- and 6-rated routes. On the side overlooking the Mutnie lakes, on the other hand, there is a route normally used as a descent that leads to the summit and presents no difficulty except the altitude itself. From the Alaudinskie lakes camp, go up the upper Chapdara river valley through the gently rising slopes and then on to the moraine up to the plateau, where the Mutnie lakes are situated (3,490 m, 4-6 hours). Halfway up, towards the east, there is a lovely view ot Bodkhona Peak C),138 m) with its vertical rock faces and Mt, Zamok (3,070 m). The view is splendid from the Mutnie lakes as well. This is where you bivouac. Continue eastwards in the direction of the glacier between the western side of Zamok and the northern side of Paykhamber Peak (4,958 m). Go up the slopes on the left side of the moraine and through the middle of the glacier, then proceed along the snow slopes up to the col between Zamok and Paykhamber Peak (3-4 hours).

From the pass, head north and continue along the wide easy southern ridge up to the summit (1-1,5 hours from the col). The descent takes about three hours along the same route. If you go right from the col, westwards, in an hour you can reach the panoramic summit of Paykhamber Peak via the easy eastern ridge. You descend from here along the same route (2-3 hours).

Chimtarga (5487 m) peak S. Face.

Chimtarga (5487 m) peak. and the Eastern ridge of Adamtash peak

Adamtash (4700 m) peak.

The Eastern Ridge of Adamtash Peak (4,700 m, 2A)

(In the foto to the right) Peak Adamtash, seen from Alaudinskie lakes.

From the base camp at the Alaudinskie lakes you can see Adarntash (Stone Man) Peak to the south dominating the entire Chapdara river valley. Starting from the camp, take the path leading to Piala lake and then, along easy slopes, go up towards the eastern ridge of Adarntash. Continue in the direction of the Vorota (Gate) rock between the eastern ridge of Mt. Adarntash and the western ridge of Promezhutocniy (Intermediate) Peak (4,810 m) and go to the top along the snowy incline. The steepness is forty degrees. Continue to the right along the snow ledges for 120 meters and you will arrive at the snow gully that leads to the thin, sharp "Tooth" gendarme on the eastern ridge. Under the gendarme, go right along the steep snow slope up to the rock walls (50-60° incline, 20 m) that go up to the ridge (40 m), which, by way of an easy rock and snow route, takes you to the top (1-2 hours). On the whole, the climb takes five hours, while you can make the descent in roughly two and a half hours. Rope and two or three pitons are necessary. From the summit you have a magnificent view of Chapdara Peak (5,050 m), the Bodk-hona group (5,138m), Zamok Peak (5070 m), and the Ganza (5,300 m) and Maria-Mirali groups.

THE LAKE REGION

(In the foto to the right) Alaudinskie lakes.

The Alaudinskie lakes camp is the starting point for the most beautiful routes amidst this region's unspoiled nature. One of these routes links Lake Alaudinskie with Lake Kulikalon. From the base camp at Lake Alaudinskie, climb westwards up an easy scree path until you reach the Shogun-Aga pass (3-4 hours), where there is a lovely view that takes in the famous northwestern face of Mt. Chapdara (5,050 m) and, to the east, the steep, still unconquered northeastern face of Mt. Adarntash (4,700 m). The descent, with views of the lovely northern faces of the Maria-MiraJi group (4,970 and 5,120 m respectively), leads to Dushakha Lake (2,350 m), near which you can bivouac (2 hours).

Another two or three hours of descent take you to picturesque Lake Kulikalon, from which you can continue through Laudan pass (3,630 m) in the luxuriantly green Laudan river valley.

(In the foto to the right) having a bath in the lake.

There is three or four-day route from the base camp that goes up the Chapdara valley amongst the green of the meadows and then onto the moraine from Lake Alaudinskie up to the plateau, where the Mutnie lakes are situated (3,490 m, 4-6 hours). The view of the vertical faces of Mt. Bodkhona (3,138 m) and Mt. Zamok (3,070 m) is quite i'oveiy. You can bivouac at tfie Mutnie fakes and then climb up the panoramic Delo-Don pass, which is covered with snow. At summer-time the crevasses open up in the glacier, so you must be equipped with boots, rope and crampons.

By making a ten-day trip from the Mutnie lakes you can discover the loveliest lakes in the region. Head south and go over the western Kasnok pass (4,000 m), which leads to attractive Lake Biriuzovoe in the Kasnok river valley. Then cross over Dvoinoy (Double) pass and you will arrive in the Left Zindon river valley, which has two lakes, the Upper and Lower. Continue northwards through Mezhozerniy (Lakes) pass (3,900 m) until you reach Sierat valley, with the lake of the same name. Lastly, turn east and cross over Sierat pass (3,200 m), after which you will arrive at KuliWon Lake; from there you return to the Alaudinskie lakes by means of Alaudin pass. You will need to take along rope, an ice axe and crampons for this trip.
Maria (4970 m) - Mirali (5120) group.
Maria - Rudaki (4400 m) peaks N. Face.
Alaudin (4237 m) peak.
Moscow (5183 m) peak N. Face.-
Zindon (4800 m) peak N. Face.

Second speedy Russian chempionship in Mountaineering in Fanskie Mountains.

To be continued...