Mt. Kazbek (5033 m) region.
Mt. Kazbek region is situated in Eastern part of Central Caucasus, on Georgia territory, near to Georgian Military highway, Kazbegi village (1700 m ). This mountain region is almost independent from other mountain chain. Kazbek is volcano 5033 m high. First climbed in 1868 under the leadership of D. Freshfild.
There is wonderful Gergeti Monastery, standing on the cliff, which of the way coming to the foot of Mt. Kazbek begins from. It is beauty view through it with Kazbek on the back front.
(In the foto to the right) Gergety Monastery.
It is very long way to the foot of Kazbek. It takes about 6-10 hours to get to meteostation near to slope of Kazbek on 3800 m high, built in 1933. First part of the way comes through green grass up to small pass, from where Kazbek begins to be seen in all its splendour (2-3 hours). Then little bit down, cross Gergeti river (half way) - good place to have rest, have some tea, as this is the last place with grass and after there are only moraine, ice and snow. Along moraine of Gergeti glacier way comes about 1-2 hours up to big cliff on the left side. This is the place where to turn right and cross the Gergeti glacier. Better to go directly, as the more you move to the left, the more crevasses are in the glacier. Then by snow half an hour to get to meteostation.
Meteostation is three flour building looks like Refuge of 11 on Elbrus slope, but without any heat supply. It looks inside rather wild and not too much comfort. Only second flour (central part) is possible to leave in. Two rooms has beds and chimney-corner. Other rooms are absolutely empty. Karemats, sleeping bags are necessary.
Gergety Monastery
Mt. Kazbek (5033 m) region.
From meteostation there are two possible routes on the top. More difficult is just up by the wide south-east slope-couloir (snow-ice) (3B difficulty). This route comes to the top. Early summer it's possible to go this slope by snow. It is about 30-35 dergree. The route comes near to rocks, to be sure of avalanche secure. In august here ice is opening and becomes more difficult to follow this way.
Second route is more classical - like screw from the left to right, turning the cone of Kazbek on 180 around. From meteostation route comes by left side on the moraine. After 1 hour turns to right to glacier. Here is easier to go near to slope of Kazbek as long as possible, but from the slopes it is possible rock falls, but in second part of summer, there are a lot of crevasses on glacier. Rope and crampons are necessary. Then rout comes to the pass between Kazbek and Spartak peak (4677 m), turn to right again and by the wide snow slope way comes to the top. This way is very easy, but a lot of crevasses, especially in August are through the way. It takes about 8-10 hour to the top and back.
(In the foto to the right) Mt. Kazbek.
The weather can be changeable, a few days stable, few days raining, fogs, snow. In case of fog - it is rather easy to loos the way in wide slopes.
In May and June it is possible to go by ski even up to the top with following ski descent down. All crevasses are covered by snow and avalanche danger is small. July is the optimum monthfor ascent by foot, as small crevasses, but not too much snow.
Mt. Kazbek

To be continued...