(In the foto to the right) North-Western face of peak Revolution, seen from Fedchenko glacier.
Revolution (6974 m) peak region (map).
Mt. Revolution and 26 Bakinskikh Kommissarov Peak Along the upper part of the Fedchenko glacier, which is 5,000-5,200 meters above sea level, there are more than twenty peaks over 6,000 meters high that are a delight for mountain climbers. Among the best known of these are Revolution (6,974 m), 26 Bakinskikh Kommissarov (6,834 m), Fikker (6,718 m), and Parizhskoy Kommuny (The Paris Commune, 6,354 m).
Lost in the heart of Pamir, this is a wild, almost desert area. The approach to the upper Yazgulem-Dara river valley, in fact, is extremely long and difficult if you do not take a helicopter from Osh or Dushanbe, The road, which begins in Osh and takes three or four days, follows the ancient Silk Road, winds up the Kudara river, skirts Lake Karakul and then goes over the rough Abdukagor Pass, about 3,000 meters above sea level, which leads to the Bartang river valley. Here are the last villages inhabited by shepherds who live isolated from the rest of the world for most of the year. From the last village in the valley, Roshpor, the path moves through a terrain of rocks, stones and canyons with rushing rivers, leading to the wide clearing where expeditions usually set up their base camp (5-7 hours). The view of Revolution peak and the range that separates the valley from the Fedchenko glacier is simply superb. There is no need to climb up the majestic peaks to appreciate the fascination and beauty of this peak, though the routes that wind up both Revolution and 26 Bakinskish Kommissarov are very interesting.
(In the foto to the right) The splendid view to 26 Bakinskikh Kommisarov peak.
Revolution, the fourth highest peak in the Pamir range, was discovered in 1928 by a joint German-Russian expedition. It was climbed for the first time in 1954 by A. Ugarov, who went up the northeastern side. In 1962 L. Myshliaev opened up a new route along the bastions of the awe-inspiring northwestern face that rises up for 2,000 meters, 26 Bakinskikh Kommissarov (6,834 m) was first climbed in 1957 by E. Tamm from the northwestern col. In 1977 J. Shevchenko opened a route up the southern face.
There is still a lot to he discovered on the steep rocky sides of these peaks, as some faces - such as the northern one of 26 Bakinskikh Kommissarov - have not yet been explored.
In the upper part of Fedchenko glacier - the biggest glacier of Pamir 72 km long, peaks Revolution (6974 m) and 26 Bakinskikh Kommisarov (6834 m) peaks are situated, forming in the north side vast snow basin with steep vertical North-Western face of Revolution peak rising up.
Revolution peak. North-Western face
Panorama of Revolution peak - North slopes
peak Revolution from East side
Revolution peak - South face
peak 26 Bakinskikh Komisarov (6834 m) peak - South face
The Route up Shipka Peak (6,254 m, 4B)
From the base camp the path winds up along the moraine gorge and then crosses over the Yazgulem-Dara glacier. The crossing is rather complicated because of the many crevasses. The route continues on the left-hand side the glacier and then turns right along the stony terrain. You then go up the gully that separates Shipka peak from Mt. 50 Let Vooruzhonnikh Sil (Fiftieth Anniversary of the Air Forces), At the beginning of the slope thi a cairn that shows the way. At the snow and, further up, at the end of the route o ridge, you may encounter slabs of ice. route then passes along the ridge where 5,300 meters, you will find plenty of spa set up your bivouac, The following day there is a ridge that is but tiring at the same time, because o high altitude. This leads to the top, when have one of the loveliest views of the rounding peaks. The descent follows the route. You can bivouac at 5,800 m, but it manage to reach the bivouac of the ascent can go up the last part of the route wit] having to carry your gear. For this climb, which takes three days, you need rope, crampons and ice axes. It is not advisable to climb up or descend by skis, as the ridge has ir rocky stretches.
Paris Commune (6354 m) peak - South face
(In the foto to the right) peak 26 Bakinskikh Komisarov.
peak Kholodnaya stena (5979 m) - North face
peak Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) - East face
To be continued...