Terrible South-west face of Peak Communism climbed by Kazbek Valiev.
"It was the best ascent in the season of 1980 in high altitude class. At that time, and also now, only high experienced team could climb this grand rock face. 3000 m of mixed ice-rock face we succeed to climb from the third attempt. The first one was in 1976 year - very bad weather turned us back from the altitude 5800 m. In 1977 at the altitude of 6400 one of the climber from our team getting ill and we helped him descent down to glacier - the life is more important. By that time the centre of this face, so called "Puzo", have been climbed by the team of V. Nepomniaschiy, but during 28 days. Our ascent took "only" 11 days. From 10 nights on the rock face - we had 9 in sitting position in the tent, fixed to the rocks by means of rock pitons.
The most difficult problems on this face were:intensive stone falls up to the altitude of 6800 m
and so called "Puzo" - vertical rock at the altitude from 6100 up to 6800 m. At this altitude climbing over rocks with steepness 80 - 85 degrees took away a lot of our power. So we decided to choose the rout of directisima.
I remember a part of route at the altitude of 6500 meters. Together with Valeriy Khrischatiy binding with one rope, we could not find rather acceptable variant for climbing by the practically vertical rock about 40 meters long. To the left - it was useful rock crack for free climbing and protection, but it is finished after 15-18 meters with cornices, overhanging further. To the right-up - it was very thin crack, but we could not see how long it comes on the very steep rock. I came over the turn of the rock face along all length of the this crack and have seen that it finished, and it was no any place for rock pitons protection, but the rock becomes slightly more gentle. There were not normal hook for fingers for free climbing by the rocks, only some thing looks like dents in rock or like "small holes" with the size from hen egg to the palm. Further along 20 - 25 meters I could not see any cracks for piton safety protection. I was fixed to the last piton, hanging over and was made my mind to climb in free climbing without intermediate belai points only with "friction" up to nearest shelf over the bend of rock face. Valera shouted me from over the bend, that it is enough the rope for climbing. But what if not ?.. To fall down over 40 - 45 meters - it means to die, as the rope will not stand this fall and breaks. To stop movement during the climbing - means to fall down also ... I remembered Anatoliy Kustovskiy. Maestro, who succeed to climb famous Pillar on South Ushba - one of the most prestige route in all Caucasus. In 1973 he tragically died on this face where we now try to climb on. It was her. So may be now it is my turn?
Valera declared, that it is enough rope. So, I come! After 5-6 meters my pulse and breathing jump up that I decided to speed down - it so easy to fall. It was very small catch for fingers for climbing, but rather good friction. My Asian boots for rock climbing holds me good on the rock, but it is too frightfully. Unfortunately, I could not see Valeriy who hold the rope for my protection - only far below I could see the glacier with crevasses. The rope comes after me without any friction - the only terrible thing which could be is if the rope will be blocked in karabiner. There is no any crack still. I remember that I must move - not to stop. Move to be alive, to lead my friends, because the only exit from this terrible rock face was for us through the top. It is too danger to descent because of stone fall, and to leave this face after years dreaming of. Up, up.. It is good, that it is warm enough. I climbed without the gloves. In the end of this part I could find good catch for my fingers for climbing and it was good enough to stop and have a rest, but it is better not to stop. More three meters, one meter and I get found good wide shelf. About one meter in width. I fall on it, made a piton by the hummer, made a breath in with relax, fixed a rope and... fall a sleep."