Engels peak
(In the foto to the right) Engels peak.
Engels peak
(In the foto to the left) Engels peak - south face.
The ancient Silk Road went over the passes of southwestern Pamir, at the border between Tadzhikistan and Afghanistan, as can be seen by the many archaeological and historical finds and monuments along the valleys: graffiti, tombs, places of worship, ruins of fortresses and castles.
The mountains in this region, which overawed the first chroniclers who passed over them, are over 6,000 meters high in many zones. They lie between the Rushanskiy and Shakhdarinskiy ranges, Here, towering over the plateau at the point where the Vkhan Daria and Piandzh rivers cross, there are beautiful mountains, with very difficult routes, whose names refer to the history of the Soviet Union: Paktor Peak (6,080 m), which was first climbed by E. Abalakov's expedition; the Tadzhikistan (6,565 m), Moscovoskoy Pravdi and Tadzhikskiy Gosudarstvenniy Universitet (TGU, 6,183 m) peaks, with very demanding routes; and the two splendid pyramids of Marx Peak (originally called Peak of the Peacemaker Tsar, 6,723 m) and Engels Peak (formerly the Queen's Peak, 6,510 m), whose staggering precipitous 2,000-meter faces point up to the sky.


South-Western Pamir (map).
(In the foto to the right) South face of Engels peak seen from Kishti-Gerob valley with its reflection in the lake.
Engels peak with its reflection in the lake
(In the foto to the right) North face of Engels peak seen from Nispar valley.
Engels - Marx peaks from the North
Engels (6510 m) peak East face.
Engels peak. North face.
Engels peak. South face.
Engels peak - descent route
Engels peak North face
Marx (6723 m) peak
TadjGU (6183 m) peak
Moskovsaya Pravda (6075 m) peak.
Tajikistan (6565 m) peak.
(In the foto to the right) Eastern face of peak Taj. GU.
Danilaytisa (5837 m) peak
Chiurlionisa (5794 m) peak
The Route up Chiurlionisa Peak from the Southwestern Side (5,794 m, 2A)
Chiurlionisa peak is situated in the Shakhdarinskiy range, near Engels and Danelaytisa (5,837 m) peaks. From the base camp in the lower Kishti-Dzherob valley, take the path that leads to the Kishti-Dzherob glacier to the left of the river (one hour). Bearing right, cross the glacier, which is covered by moraine detritus. Here you will find a green area where you can bivouac (4 hours). Climb up the steep rubbly slope to the snow slope; another two hours up the snow and you will reach the rock ridge. Follow this up to the snow ridge with cornices that leads to the summit. Take the same route for the descent. You can make the ascent and descent the same day. From the top there is a splendid view of the whole region and the majestic rocks of the southern face of Engels Peak.
peak Taj.GU
The North-Eastern Face of Engels (6510 m) peak in South-Western Pamir, first climbed by Sergey Efimov

To be continued...