If Extreme - is "a shape of your heart..."

The First Route up the Riumka (Little Glass) on Mt. Zamin-Koror.

In a memory of those, whose souls remains to fly not visually in a silence of Mountain's Grandeur.

Zami-Karor (4303 m) group. North - West face
The rocky massif Zamin-Karor (4,767 m) is traditionally considered part of the Fanskle Mts. in the Pamir-Alai system. It lies between the Gissarsky and Zcravshanskiy ranges in an isolated mountain system with eight peaks. The following is an account of the first climb up the Riumka (Little Glass) Route (6A) on the northwestern face of the western peak, which is 4,303 meters high; the route was opened in 1979 by Sergel Efimov, one of the best Russian mountain climbers, who won the Soviet Championship five times running and traced many new routes that until then had been considered inaccessible.
"The northwestern face of Mt. Zamin-Karor extends from south to northwest for about six kilometers and the difference in height of the slope ranges from 900 meters in the southwestern part to 1,500 meters in the northwestern part. There are no easy routes. But we chose a really difficult one that could be compared to the American Route on the PeM Dru on Mi. Blanc. "The 1979 Soviet Alpinist Championship was taking place, and the six participating rope teams had chosen six parallel routes. We all started together, while the jury, at the foot of the face, evaluated the difficulty of the route selected and the class of the rope teams. The slope we chose is 1,370 meters long, 1,200 meters with a > or 6 difficulty rating the average incline is roughly 75, but the most vertical parts go up to 8>. The face is divided into two parts by a snow ledge, and half of the route consists of vertical walls interrupted by rocky terraces. The rock oozes with water and in the lower part of the route it is quite smooth. We moved up mostly by means of the friction technique; we could have used expansion bolls but we would not have been able to climb up the first 200 meters in one day. At first I could not understand how the rope team lead climber had been able to get over that first stretch; there wasn't even a tiny crack, the rock was smooth, with a 75 incline. Then I realized that the water dripping, down the face had eroded some little ja^ed cracks where friends and nuts had been inserted. "The first day was exhausting, in the evening I clearly realized I had not carefully calculated my stamina. I was coming, out of the fissure on a ledge when my hands gave way and I hurtled down. I was lucky to be able to kick away from the rock and avoid crashing into it. I stopped after twenty meters of free fall. My first reaction was feeling sorry I again had to go up that wall that had been sofati^uin^ to climb. "The judges at the base of the face saw me falling and we had to explain to them that everything was all right. For us the judges and spectators were a greaf incentive; T think that if we had. had. to climb this face alone we would probably not have made it.
"After the {edge there is a gigantic projecting block known as the "Little Glass" that is 150 meters high with a 90 incline. Once over this we would have done the most difficult part of the route. You could, get up it by free climbing. along the nd.ge, but it was almost beyond our endurance. We decided to try. When I got over the upper part of the "Little Glass" I began to think that we really had a good chance of succeeding. I climbed up the rest of the route rather easily, despite the five days of grueling ascent that had drained my energy. If we had not done many climbs up the Middle Mountains near Seattle, Washington, I don't think we would have got up this face.
"The Little Glass Route was the beginning of our mountaineering career. We won first place in the Championship and our route was judged the best on Mt. Zamin-Karor. If we had not conquered this mountain, we would not have risked climbing up the "mirror" ofMt. Erydag. "Today I'm sorry only about one thing,: after our ascent the route was taken many times by rope teams who made indiscriminate use of expansion bolts. Now the face is literally covered with them and as a result the route is by no means as interesting and beautiful as it was then".
By Sergei Efimov
To be continued ...